Michelle Bouffard’s top 20 sustainable wines to discover

Renowned sommelier, author, teacher and columnist Michelle Bouffard is also the founder and a moderator at Tasting Climate Change™, an international conference where the greatest experts share their knowledge of climate change’s impact on the winemaking industry in order to find sustainable solutions.

She shared an inspiring top 20 list of products that shine on the environmental front—and most of them retail for under $25.

The birthplace of natural wine and an area where many have adopted agroecology—an agricultural approach that implements ecological principles to grow grapes while also regenerating the soil, biodiversity and ecosystems—Beaujolais has always been a beautiful region. Nowadays, the AOC carries out research projects to help producers adapt to climate change and mitigate its impact. There’s no doubt that Christophe Pacalet is able to showcase his land with Les Marcelins. Fans love this smooth, refreshing wine for its juicy acidity, lightness and expressive notes of violet, white pepper, blackcurrant and bilberry. Serve it slightly chilled with a roast chicken or steak tartare. 

The co-founder of Equalitas, Italy’s environmental certification standard, Michele Salcheto is deeply involved in climate action, practises organic farming and received B Corp certification. He’s the one behind this Sangiovese with light tannins and bright acidity. This wonderfully juicy wine reveals violets, red licorice and crisp cherries mixed with a note of dried herbs. Serve it chilled alongside a charcuterie board. 

Southern Rhône boasts a wide variety of grapes that allow winemakers to create balanced wines, even in years with intense heat waves. This organic red blend mostly uses Grenache grapes, which adapt particularly well to hot, dry climates. It features a deliciously comforting flavour, with the concentrated fruit revealing the aroma of blackcurrant, ripe raspberry, plum, black olives, and a touch of garrigue. Despite the 14% ABV, it’s still nice and refreshing. Try it with game meat or a hearty stew.

Thanks to high-altitude terroirs, fermentation in concrete tanks, early harvesting and Grenache grapes that can grow with no problem in hot weather, Quebec-born Patricio Brongo produces this balanced, no-frills organic red wine with a beautiful freshness and pure fruity flavour, without a hint of woodiness. It has silky tannins and crisp notes of ripe raspberry, orange peel and red licorice. Enjoy it alongside Chinese hot pot or after a day spent outdoors.

Miguel Torres, the wine industry’s leader in the fight against climate change, works to rally vineyards together and implement positive practices in order to decarbonize the industry by 2050. This modern Priorat is rich and bold, but not heavy, evoking blood oranges, red plums, some saltiness, and hints of mushroom and dried herbs, which add depth. It’s perfect with a leg of lamb or grilled sausages. 

Apostolos Thymiopoulos played a key role in promoting the terroir in Naoussa as well as the region’s Xinomavro grapes. True to his style, he produced an organic red wine with plenty of character—one that shows off the very best of Xinomavros. The strong tannins and bold acidity provide the structure needed for the notes of red cherry, wild strawberry, sour cherry and dried herbs to shine. It’s absolutely delicious with osso bucco. 

In the current climate change context, altitude represents an important factor for adapting to conditions. Thanks to vineyards among the highest in altitude within their region, the Stianti family produces balanced organic wines, even in markedly sunny years. This elegant, complex and structured red offers notes of cherry and plum, mixed with nuances of iodine, leather and cedarwood. The sharp brightness highlights the aromatic profile, while the tannins are an ideal counterpoint to the full, fruity flavour. It pairs well with flank steak and spaghetti Bolognese. 

Practising regenerative agriculture, installing solar panels and measuring its greenhouse gas emissions are some of the ways Bodega Sierra Norte strives to fight climate change and offer affordable wines. This zippy white is the product of two indigenous varietals, with its crisp acidity balancing out the round fruitiness. The notes of citrus and freshly cut grass are straightforward and harmonious. This expertly made, refreshing blend is divine at happy hour and alongside dishes like scallop ceviche. 

The first Ontarian winery to be certified by Sustainable Winegrowing Ontario, Cave Spring played a key role in developing the wine industry in the province and showcasing Riesling in Canada. Its environmental commitment guides its entire approach, from the vineyard to the cellar. This is a quintessential Riesling that presents vivid notes of peach, lime and nectarine, rounding out the wine’s sharper edges, whereas a touch of residual sweetness balances the bold tartness. Its just the thing to enjoy with a fish curry or sushi platter.

Harvesting hybrid varietals through biodynamic farming. Dedicating themselves to producing sparkling wines that mirror Quebec’s northernness. Building a vineyard that will last a lifetime. This is what a talented couple bet on—and to great success. Their 2023 white has generous notes of acacia and brioche, which soften the biting liveliness, while the creamy mouthfeel brings depth and dimension. The fine bubbles reveal a saltiness that plays off the notes of red apple and white flowers, making this wine a natural pairing with oysters or even just plain potato chips. 

Native to Greece, Assyrtiko grapes are so well suited to dry, intense heat that many countries like South Africa and Australia have started growing it, too. This bottle comes from Florina, a region nestled in the northern part of the country where the vineyards are at an altitude of 600–700 m, helping them produce invigorating wines defined by the aroma of citrus and white flowers. The salinity adds a mouth-watering complexity. This white is delectable with shellfish and pasta alle vongole.

Thanks to Anne Bousquet and her commitment to fighting climate change, this attractively priced organic wine checks all the boxes on the environmental front. The altitude gives this Chardonnay an enticing freshness and high acidity, with notes of lemon and nectarine and a hint of white flowers. A light roundness and aroma of bread dough provide balance and texture. Delicious with seared scallops and fish with a beurre blanc sauce. 

Ken Forrester has done a lot to shed a light on old vines in South Africa and helping people recognize their resilience in extreme weather conditions. From these ancient stocks come Chenin Blanc grapes, which are used to produce this balanced white wine whose aroma and generous fruitiness are balanced by strong acidity. The taste is a symphony of quince, hay, honey and salt, ending on notes of pastry. Simply divine with a mushroom risotto. 

With an awareness of the climate challenges in Spain, which involve issues related to the availability of water and the loss of crops due to dry weather, the Sumarroca vineyard is deeply involved in fighting climate change. One way it does this is by favouring indigenous grapes, which preserve their acidity in very hot years. Here, the Xarel·lo grapes are front and centre right from the start, with red apple and Meyer lemon giving way to anise-driven accents. The invigorating flavour reveals notes that echo the aroma, and the strong saltiness and chalky texture add complexity. It goes well with fish and poultry alike.

After practising organic winemaking for several years, Michel Gassier went even further when his daughter joined him in the business. Regenerative agriculture, which aims to build a long-lasting ecosystem, is now at the heart of his philosophy. This classic rosé is great value for money—light and delightfully refreshing, it adds a little sunshine to the brisk January weather with its notes of wild strawberry and orange peel and a bit of cranberry. Serve it with a beet and fennel salad or a scallop and mango ceviche. 

As owner and merchant-grower, Gabriel Meffre cares very much about lowering greenhouse gas emissions. Laurus is a go-to wine that proves to be outstanding year after year, and the 2024 is no exception. Viognier, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Marsanne grapes come together to produce a deliciously creamy white blend that suggests apricots, white nectarines, linden and honey, with a slightly bitter finish that adds welcome freshness. Savour it with a fish curry or fish with a beurre blanc sauce. 

Ventoux’s elevated terrains serve as a natural buffer against the effects of climate change, and this organic white is a fantastic introduction to everything this region has to offer. While the area enjoys a Mediterranean climate, this wine is defined by its freshness, juicy acidity and fair lightness. It features notes of honeysuckle, orange peel and Meyer lemon, with a slightly bitter finish. You can’t go wrong pairing it with gravlax or a fennel and orange salad. 

Acidity is essential for producing quality sparkling wine, which means impeccable work is required when caring for the vines to grow grapes that are just right for bubbly whites, even in sunny years. Made with organic Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Pinot Auxerrois grapes, this elegant zero-dosage Crémant distinguishes itself by its specific and complex structure, offering a ripe profile balanced by a vibrant acidity and notes of pastry and acacia against a backdrop of lemon, anise, yellow plum and white flowers. You’ll love it with gougères, but it’s rich enough to complement a scallop risotto, too.

Ogier is part of the Advini group, an environmental leader in France. Cellar master Édouard Guérin is the man behind this very harmonious Grenache-forward wine whose full flavour of ripe red fruit is offset by the freshness of the Syrah, Carignan and Cinsault grapes. The silky tannins and aroma of raspberry, red plum and black pepper—with a hint of black olive and dried herbs—make the Artésis perfect with game meat and lamb.

Chenin Blancs are extremely resilient and undoubtedly one of the varietals of the future in our current climate context, as South Africa has demonstrated for many decades. The talented Andrea Mullineux came up with a fabulous introduction to the whites of the Swartland region—at an affordable price, too. People love Kloof Street for its seductive notes of apricot, camomile and quince, perfectly balanced by a sharp acidity. It’s exquisite with goat cheese or a lentil curry. 

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