Spotlight on Asian cuisine

A former contestant on the competition show Les Chefs!, Montrealer Minh Phat knows a thing or two about marrying flavours. The owner of restaurants mui mui, Anémone and SAE LOW was brought up on his parents’ Chinese-Vietnamese food, grew up with typical Quebec fare and trained in French cooking. His take on fusion cuisine, specifically Asian fusion, is that putting an Asian twist on things often allows other techniques, dishes or lesser-known ingredients to shine—but there’s a thin line between homage and cultural appropriation. In his opinion, the key is for chefs who put their own spin on traditional recipes to avoid claiming that their dish is better than the original, so as not to overshadow them.

Minh is thrilled to see the rise of Asian cultures on the culinary scene. “There’s been a boom, both here in Quebec and elsewhere. Especially with Chinese cooking. It’s incredible to see what chefs are coming up with,” he said, adding that it’s a perfect opportunity to dispel stubborn beliefs, like the expectation that Asian food should be cheap because it’s supposedly quick and easy to make. He brought up the technical difficulty of making soup dumplings as an example: “Each individual soup dumpling should have 12 folds. And the middle has to be thicker, otherwise the soup will leak out as it cooks. People don’t realize it’s an art. It’s just as technical as a plate of ravioli with sage butter that goes for $30 a pop, but people aren’t as willing to pay that price for dumplings.”

Calling Asian cuisines gourmet means acknowledging all the precision, complexity and refinement that they require. Minh recognizes that he’s uniquely positioned to add an Asian influence to high-end kitchens. He also feels responsible for showing that you can break into the food world while celebrating your culture: “When I was on Les Chefs!, lots of young Asians reached out to say they were happy to see me on the show.”

Right now, Minh’s dream is to visit China and Vietnam and collect the recipes of the elders there. It’s clear to see he’s eager to share his ancestors’ cooking—and the world is eager to taste it! 

“There’s an entire generation whose expertise will be lost because they worked hard to make sure their kids could study and not have to work in kitchens. I would love to save that knowledge.”

Minh's top food spot

Minh shared his list of Asian institutions in Montreal. Jot these down for your next outing! 

The first place that came to mind was Nouilles Sauvette. “It’s tasty, simple, authentic and convenient.” This takeout counter in Little Italy was opened recently by Anita Feng, founder of the popular Sichuan grocery story J’ai Feng. Her new concept has a small menu that’s true to her roots, with three noodle dishes served in iconic Chinese takeout boxes that you can bring home or eat on the go. That means no dishes—plus, you can make your own pairing. In Minh’s case, he likes his noodles with a virgin negroni made with a low-alcohol gentian-based aperitif.

Close by is Épicerie Pumpui, which serves delicious, fuss-free Thai food that’s as spicy as anything you’ll find in Bangkok. This is how Minh knows it’s authentic: “The owners aren’t Asian, but they completely respect the culture. For instance, the spiciness isn’t toned down to cater to local palates.” To mitigate the heat, the chef enjoys sipping an alcohol-free blonde ale. 

Over in Chinatown, another favourite is Dobe & Andy, a Cantonese diner named after the three founding brothers’ mother-in-law and father, who was also a restauranteur. “It’s a great example of the next generation of Asian restaurants. They took over an old spot and did something completely different with it,” Minh noted. Their specialties are Cantonese classics like BBQ duck and crispy pork roast, plump wontons, hearty fried rice and comforting braised dishes.

Finally, for anyone looking for fine Japanese fare, Minh highly recommends Kitano Shokudo on Mont-Royal Avenue. This quaint little establishment is headed by a single chef who focuses on being a neighbourhood joint that serves fresh products shipped directly from Japan. Minh’s go-to is the “mazemen noodles with sea urchin and bone marrow. Oh my god! I’m there every Monday!” he exclaimed, laughing.

 

Festivals that highlights the flavours of Asia

  • YATAI MTL: Quebec’s largest Japanese street market features exclusive restaurant menus, an SAQ bistro with a wide variety of Japanese sakes and whiskies, merchant booths and special shows from June 5 to 8 at Hangar 1825.
  • Chợ Đêm MTL: The 31st edition of this Vietnamese street food market takes place from July 17 to 20 at the Peel Basin.
  • POCHA MTL: Also at the Peel Basin, this festival celebrates Korean street food from July 24 to 27 to the tunes of K-pop music.