For DOs like Sancerre or Menetou-Salon, the best tracts of land are highlighted and efforts are put into winemaking processes that promote a more open expression of the variety. “We’re working with fewer constrictions and you can feel how the wines are starting to relax a bit. Wines express themselves very differently on different terroirs, with exotic notes like pineapple in hotter terroirs and those with marl, or even with a very youthful exuberance in terroirs with flint. The domains have a lot of variation and so the wines are more complex.”
In addition, Loire’s wine growers never stop promoting new terroirs, or revitalizing old ones forgotten in the march of time, especially after the phylloxera blight that devastated European vineyards at the end of the 19th century. Lepeltier thinks particularly of the restoration of Côt (a local name for Malbec) in the region of Amboise through the Touraine-Amboise DO, from which lively, accessible wines are now starting to make an appearance.
In short, there’s no end in sight when it comes to discovering this magnificent region and its agricultural treasures, both richly diverse and easily approachable. It makes you thirsty just thinking about it.