Cocktails with Kate Boushel

Upon receiving the 2024 Altos Bartenders’ Bartender Award from North America’s 50 Best Bars, Kate was described as “the matriarch of Montreal”—a perfect nickname for such a warm individual with a delightfully infectious laugh. That same year, she was also named Bartender of the Year by Canada’s 100 Best Restaurants and ranked 21st on Bar World 100’s list of the most influential figures in the industry. 

Since 2018, Kate has been Director of Beverages and Education at Barroco, a hospitality group with half a dozen establishments in Montreal, including the Atwater Cocktail Club and Milky Way, two bars regularly named among the best in Canada. In addition to training the next generation in the group, Kate travels the world to share her know-how, visiting pop-ups at the best bars in Mexico, Singapore and London, as well as mentoring young professionals at Tales of the Cocktail, a premier mixology festival that takes place every year in New Orleans. On March 8, she’ll be in Johannesburg, South Africa, at the AJABU Cocktail & Spirits Festival to speak at a conference about women’s role in the industry.

We met up with Kate in between her trips at the St-Henri restaurant Foiegwa to chat about her career and how hospitality jobs have evolved. 

If you were a cocktail, how would you describe yourself?

I’m like a super simple Spanish Fizz, which is fortified wine mixed with some sparkling wine—traditionally, it’s Spanish vermouth and cava, served with a slice of orange and an olive. I think that’s a good embodiment of who I am because it’s easy to prepare and has a straightforward presentation, yet it’s extremely complex in terms of the flavour, depending on the vermouth you’re using. Plus, the sparkling wine gives it some pep, and that’s so me—I’m very bubbly and I like to laugh!

What do you like most about your job?

The word “hospitality” is used to describe our industry. It’s a shame that there’s no equivalent in French, where the sector is referred to as just bars and restaurants. Our job is to welcome people into our home—our bar, our restaurant, whatever the case may be—and we want to create a beautiful atmosphere so everyone can have a great time together.

How has the bartender role evolved throughout your career?

I remember when I started working at bars in 2001 that people weren’t really talking about Quebec cuisine, at least not like we do now. There were good restaurants, but the scene was either high-end spots or your go-to eatery. Nowadays, you find a wide variety of both restaurants and bars. In the last 15 years, our drinking culture has also changed when you think of how we consume wines and spirits.

Has women's role in the industry changed too?

I think the main difference now is that women have greater access to management and ownership roles.

People often forget that women didn’t have property rights before the 1960s and weren’t allowed to frequent taverns until 1981. 

These days, an increasing number of women are building careers in our industry—they’re not just bartending part-time while they’re in school or as a side hustle. 

What would you like to put a stop to when it comes to what people say about women in your role?

I’d ask folks to stop questioning our knowledge. I’m talking about our management skills rather than our mixology skills. Women have a greater tendency to trust their instincts, but that doesn’t mean that we’re drawing from a limited environment—our instincts are based on everything we’ve learned and our understanding of how individuals relate to each other. In an industry that’s all about interpersonal relationships, this is crucial. 

Also, I’m tired of being asked whether a particular drink is more for men or women. That clearly stems from our social upbringing. I think that women have less of that mental barrier. We aren’t afraid to order something strong like a martini or an Old Fashioned or something more over-the-top like a tropical cocktail. I get the impression that things are slowly changing, but I look forward to seeing men follow suit. 

Are there any women who paved the way for you in your career?

Tons, definitely! There are many who inspired and guided me in my career. There’s Mélanie Aumais, co-owner of Fin Soda, who’s a dear friend and opened the door for me when I wanted to come back into the fold 15 years ago. Then there’s Valérie Chagnon, who taught me so much when I worked at Mal Nécessaire, as well as Christina Vera in Toronto. I feel like we’ve grown together and we’re always learning from one another. 

I was also heavily inspired by Julie Reiner at Clover Club and Leyenda in New York—she showed us that anything is possible. In my opinion, these last 20 years have been the most impactful in that sense for our global industry. 

How do you pave the way for up-and-comers?

By offering the same kind of support and guidance that I got, I’d say. I was never mentored directly, but I learned to recognize people’s openness and to ask for help and advice when I needed to make important decisions. I try to be available to others in the same way. 

The next generation is amazing. In Montreal and throughout the province, there are promising young mixologists just starting out, as well as people who’ve found their groove. In Quebec City, for instance, you’ll find Julie Lacasse at Cendrillon, as well as Noémie Ducharme, co-owner at jjacques, Chez Tao and Julio Taqueria, who takes part in a number of wonderful initiatives for women. [Editor’s note: Noémie is behind Tablé(e) au féminin, a community for women in gastronomy.] There’s also Marie Roberge at Cloakroom—a rising star on the world stage—and Sabrina Touzel at Foxy.

In Barroco’s establishments, we have Jess Long, who has an incredible palate, genuine creativity and a real drive. I love seeing her do her thing. Same with Alexa Jacob, who bartends at the Atwater Cocktail Club. She has one of the bubbliest personalities I’ve ever seen in my life!

There are several of us providing guidance in our group. Everyone’s really open. Rather than trying to make carbon copies of ourselves, we adapt to people’s personalities, try to find what makes them special and see what they can bring to the industry. 

Who's been your biggest female inspiration?

 I’ve also been inspired by Monica Berg. I had the pleasure of meeting her in London and Berlin and got to know her a little bit. She’s a strong, bold, unbelievably creative woman who still works behind the bar and makes herself available to anyone who wants to learn from her and push the industry further. [Editor’s note: Monica Berg received the Altos Bartenders’ Bartender Award from The World’s 50 Best Bars in 2015 and 2019. Kate won in 2024.]

If you could have a drink together, what cocktail would you serve her?

A martini or something made with aquavit, because she’s Norwegian!

What are you raising your glass to on March 8 for International Women’s Day?

I’m raising my glass to all of those who came before me and will come after me, but most of all to everyone who works so hard day after day to uphold women’s and children’s rights around the world. Those who continue to fight for equity and equality, not just between sexes and genders, but for everyone on the fringes of society.