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Absinthe, among other things…
So just what is absinthe? It’s a plant with herbaceous and slightly bitter notes. When made into absinthe, the herb is often complemented by other ingredients – key among them anise and fennel, which tend to take centre stage. Distillers now use historical recipes, or new recipes with different herbs, including: lemon balm, hyssop, mint, basil, nettle and tarragon to name a few. Adventurous distillers even have been known to use yuzu and hops!
Swiss
or French?
The Absintherie des Cantons uses two storied absinthe styles – Swiss and French. For its Swiss-style Fleur bleue, the spirit is fresh with floral notes, a strong dose of anise, and a rather sweet taste profile. On the other hand, the Joual vert, a take on historic French recipes, is more herby and full-bodied, with a bitterness that can be mitigated by adding some sugar, as was done in the 19th century.
Some water with that?
Its formerly medicinal use means that absinthe often has a sky-high alcohol level – roughly 70 percent! As a result, drinkers add water in order to reveal the spirit’s aromas (and make it drinkable).
The green fairy… at the table
Fortement aromatique, l’absinthe peut également avoir de beaux usages en cuisine. Les notes anisées sont particulièrement appréciées avec les poissons blancs. Les desserts aux pommes peuvent en être agréablement parfumés, et on en fait aussi de délicieux sorbets et glaces.
Cheers, Hemingway!
American writer Ernest Hemingway ‘authored’ one of the most famous absinthe-based drinks. In a Champagne flute, pour 15 mL absinthe, and add simple syrup to taste. Top it off with a very dry, chilled sparkling wine. A wanderer with an unforgettably strong character, Hemingway used 45 mL of absinthe in his brews, and recommended drinking four to five of them… in a row!
It comes as no surprise, then, that one of his books also shares the name of his preferred drink: ‘Death in the Afternoon.’ Absinthe’s other classic cocktail? None other than the Sazerac, invented in New Orleans in the 19th century. In this cocktail, whiskey is elevated with a spoonful of absinthe.
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ILLUSTRATION: Valérie Bertrand
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