Discovering Austria

Since your love of Greek wines made your tongue twist around such complex grape names as Xinomavro or Agiorgitiko, why not give Austrian grape names a try? Here’s three to start you off: Grüner-Veltliner, Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch… Even if you don’t master the pronunciation, you’ll enjoy the wines themselves all the same!

The world’s seventh-largest wine producer after Greece (ergo why we mention them), Austria has wine gems that drink easily and come from just off the beaten path. No less than 35 wine varieties are cultivated in the country, generally concentrated in the east around Vienna and Linz, but above all from the Niederösterreich province –or Lower-Austria, for those in the know.

Twice as much white than red is produced, although red has been gaining ground for the past fifteen years or so, mainly thanks to increasing enthusiasm for Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch: two accessible, lively and delectable wines with notes of red fruits and spices. These two varietals pair marvellously with oven-roasted pork loin, or with hearty beef dishes—especially the Blaufränkisch, which has a bit more oomph. A tourtière or beef bourguignon would be suitable dishes for these wines.

Grand grüners

Austria’s whites are the real show-stealers, with the Grüner-Veltliner continuing to dominate national production: 36% of Austrian wines are this variety, which is nearly exclusive to the country. Its acidity and minerality are reminiscent of Rieslings, but the Grüner sets itself apart with its typical (and appealing!) notes of white pepper. The best Grüners can be cellared for decades, versus mere years. The wine pairs brilliantly with poultry or deli meats, and is quite natural served with a Viennese specialty: Wiener Schnitzel – breaded veal scallops, a dish often served with potatoes and lemon wedges.

Once you’ve sampled these distinctive wines, why not also try the Saint-Laurent, a smooth and fruity red, or Rieslings that are dry and ripe, often with peach and apricot notes, or even sample some balanced Pinot Noirs. As for the other dozens of other grape varieties unique to Austria? You’d best plan a little trip to try them all there!

Photo: Maria Beiring