A little umami in your cocktail

At Nikkei, a tapas restaurant on Laurier Street in Montreal, the aromas of Japan combine with unmistakably Peruvian flavours. In fact, the word Nikkei refers to the Japanese diaspora in Peru, which draws influence from both cultures in its cuisine.

“Umami is a big part of Nikkei culture. So, we want to explore that aspect in our cocktails as well,” explained head mixologist Jérémy Escolano, who’s not one to shy away from using pantry items to whip up his creations. He often browses the shelves of Asian and Latin American grocery stores, looking for novel ingredients. A software engineer at a big bank by day, he even uses AI and molecular chemistry as sources of inspiration!

Every season, he and his team craft a lineup of original cocktails based on a specific theme, which are added to the already impressive list of classic and signature cocktails served up at the restaurant. The last round was based on items found in nature and included the Calidō Kazán, a mix of mezcal, Pomodoro vodka (a tomato-flavoured vodka!), a Peruvian chilli pepper paste known as ají panca, cucumber, and sesame oil, and garnished with roasted sesame seeds and enoki mushrooms. Intriguing, don’t you think?

These blends of unconventional flavours never fail to intrigue customers as they browse the menu, but they often shy away from ordering them. “Going off the beaten path isn’t always easy for people, especially given the price of cocktails these days. But they’re always pleasantly surprised when they follow expert advice,” Jérémy said, noting that the servers at Nikkei are all trained to guide folks in their choice of cocktail.

Savoury cocktails like the Dirty Martini made with olive brine and the Bloody Caesar with its clam juice and steak spice obviously aren’t new—they’ve always been a popular choice for folks who aren’t fans of sweet drinks.

At Savsav, Antoine Doucet Chagnon also works closely with the kitchen staff to create cocktails that pair well with the dishes on the menu. And once again, the offerings are a fusion of Asian and other cuisines, in this case Scandinavian and Italian. This melting pot of flavours is reflected in the cocktails—and the results are simply divine.

“I’m not alone. There’s a growing number of people who are looking for exotic flavours to put their own twist on some of the classics,” Antoine said. “I’d been seeing saline solutions in cocktail recipe books for years. There was a desire to go beyond a simple rim of salt and hot sauce. And now, I’m delighted to know it fits with the vibe at Savsav [which is a nod to the French version of the expression ‘If you know, you know’],” he laughed.

Antoine finds his inspiration during his travels—the time he spent in South Korea, Thailand and Vietnam particularly stands out. “I really try to recreate moments I experienced in my cocktails,” he explained.

Although this sommelier by training claims not to pay much attention to what’s popular on social media, he occasionally gets caught up in the game. “My girlfriend introduced me to the TikTok trend of grating Parmesan on an espresso martini. I found it hilarious! It made me wonder how I could tinker with it to make it fun,” he recounted. His take on it, made with Parmesan-flavoured vodka, was featured on Savsav’s cocktail menu for a while before being replaced by a more classic version.

When it comes down to it, you don’t need a reason to play around with novel ingredients. What’s important, says Antoine, is striking a balance between the different flavours, blending tradition with innovation—wise words that could be applied to other areas of our lives!

Cocktails to revisit